Saturday, 24 October 2015

Base Application using Brushes and colour matching: Practical lesson with Sue Mainstone.


Base application on Liberty.

We learned how to Cleanse, Tone and moisturise in this lesson and then how to apply foundation and concealer. We learned how important colour matching is when it comes to the base and how to set it properly to prevent movement etc.

Health and Safety check:

  1. Check that all bags and belongings have been stored away properly.
  2. Make sure my client is sat comfortably and caped. 
  3. Cover my work station with couch roll.
  4. Make sure all of my brushes have been washed and sterilised with Isopropyl ready for application.
  5. Complete a consultation form with my client and check for any Contra-indications. 
  6. Wash hands with soap and water to prevent bacteria from being transferred to my clients face. 
  7.  Decant products onto my Palette to prevent cross contamination. 
Products and tools list:
  1. Cleanser, toner and moisturiser
  2. Matte primer Illamasqua
  3. Kryolan foundation palette
  4. Kryolan concealer palette
  5. Foundation brush x2
  6. Kabuki brush
  7. Concealer brush
  8. Wooden spatulas for decanting
  9. Cotton buds and pads
  10. Tissue

Cleansing, Toning and Moisturising: We begin by removing the eye makeup. We apply some cleansing lotion to some cotton pads and begin by gently placing them over the eyes and rubbing softly to start to remove the eye makeup. Once we feel we have done enough ourselves if there is still some left we let our client remove the rest as they will be able to be rougher with themselves. We have to make sure there is no makeup left on the face because this will make it harder when applying new makeup. If we apply new makeup and there is still makeup around the eyes (for example) It can make the fresh application look dirty. When you start to cleanse the rest of the face you begin by applying Cleansing lotion to some cotton pads and moving them around the face and start from the neck removing all old makeup and work your way up the face. Using circular motions. You then remove the cleanser with wet pads. Then you apply some toner to a cotton pad and move it around the face using the same technique you used for the cleanser. This will remove any excess makeup and cleanser and hydrate the skin. You then apply the moisturiser in the same way. This will add any needed moisture to the face and create a plump, hydrated canvas.

Primer, Foundation and concealer: 
With foundation application it has to be even coverage and needs to appear like skin. It needs to look invisible and natural. Primer: With this application you start by applying the correct primer. With this you analyse the skin type first. Once you have determined whether your client has oily, combination or dry skin you can then choose either a matte or satin primer or a combination of both if necessary. You can apply the primer using a foundation brush and with this you buff it into the skin. This is an important part of the base application as it protect your skin from clogging and creates an even surface and fills in any fine lines or pores. Foundation: After this you colour match your clients skin to the correct shade foundation. With this you analyse the skin tone, Does it have pink or yellow undertones? Is it dark or light? Once you have answered these questions you can begin to create your perfect colour. You start by choosing the closest colour match. You might be lucky and get it the first time but sometimes you need to add a little dark or light to get the perfect match Keeping in mind the skin tone. When you have have picked the correct skin tone and tested it on the face you can then begin by applying it all over the face, ears and neck with a foundation paddle brush. Getting into all the dips and nooks and crannies. Once you have applied the foundation to the face you then use a buffer brush to buff it in and create a seamless application. The buffing helps to push it into the skin and create a more natural look. Concealer: Once you have buffed it into the skin you can then apply the concealer. This helps to cover any blemishes and dark circles under the eyes. With the concealer the same rule applies to the shade as with the foundation. It has to match to create a seamless finish. With the application you apply it to the desired areas and then buff it gently. 
When buffing you have to be gentle to avoid lifting the foundation or concealer off of the face. Once you are confident with your application you then set it with translucent powder. 

Outcome and Evaluation: I was really happy with my application I felt it colour matched perfectly with Liberty's skin and gave her a glowing complexion whilst also giving her excellent coverage. Sue also gave me some really positive feedback too, which was really great to hear.  

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