Bibliography

Bibliography:

Books :

Box, Alex and Rankin (2009) Alex Box By Rankin. Rankin Photography Ltd. Westerham press

Aucoin, Kevyn (1999) Making Faces. New York. Little, Brown Company, Hachette Book Group. Page 84

Kinmonth, Patrick (2002) Mario Testino Portraits. Bullfinch press. page 67

Phillippy, Patricia (November 2005) Painting Women: Cosmetic, Canvases, and early Modern Culture. Baltimore. John Hopkins University Press. Pages 132-138.

Ribeiro, Aileen (2011) Facing Beauty: Painted Women and Cosmetic Art. London. Yale University Press. Pages 2, 6, 17, 18, 34, 40, 41, 96, 98.

Gunn, Fenja. (1973) The Artificial Face. UK. Hippocrene Press. Pages 64-85.

Eldridge, Lisa (2015) Face Paint. New York. Abrams Image. Page's 6, 19, 24, 25, 26, 27, 54, 57, 58, 59. 

Muller, Florence and Thiebaut, Philippe. 2013. Dior Impressions: The Inspiration and Influence of Impressionism at the House of Dior, Newyork. Rizzoli Newyork. pages, 20-34.

Cosio, Robyn (1975) The Eyebrow.  2^nd Edition. Regan Books. Harper Collins Publishers. Pages. 9, 62

De Castelbajac, Kate (1995) The Face of the Century: A hundred years of makeup and style. Printed in Italy. Rizzoli, New York.

Aucoin, Kevyn (1994)The Art of Makeup. Harper Collins Publishers. Pages. 46, 107.

Marsh, Madeleine (2009) Compacts and Cosmetics. South Yorkshire. Remember When Publishers.

Ririnui, Jana Waru and Nguyen, Dr Lan. (2010) Makeup is Art. Carlton Books.  

Magazines:

Perry. Katy (2015) So Hot She'll Melt Your Popsicle. Wonderland Magazine. Summer issue. Front Cover. 

Stone. Lara (2014) The Wolf In Her. Vogue. September 2014. page 355.

Internet Sites:

http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/screenqueens/

http://www.npg.org.uk/research/programmes/making-art-in-tudor-britain/workshops/workshop-2-abstract-3.php

http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw01957/Katherine-Parr

http://www.historyextra.com/feature/love-match

http://www.mexicansugarskull.com/support/dodhistory.html

Film:

Dior and I. France. Frederic Tcheng, (2014). Documentary.

Elizabeth. England. Shekhar Kapur. (1998). Film.

Elizabeth: The Golden Age. England. Shekhar Kapur. (2007). Film.

Shakespeare in Love. London, England. John Madden. (1998). Film.

The Other Boleyn Girl. England. Justin Chadwick. (2008). Film

The Tudors. Ireland. Michael Hirst. (2007-2010). TV Series.

Marie Antionette. Paris, France. Sofia Coppola. (2006). Film.

Bill Cunningham New York. New York. Richard Press. (2010) Documentary.

September Issue. New York. R.J Cutler. (2009). Documentary.

Iris. New York. Albert Maysles. (2014). Documentary.

Links to Documentary’s I have watched on YouTube:

Annie Leibovitz: Life through a lens: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDnDPXIo6Co

Mario Testino: documentary:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9kUljPTpss

Richard Avedon: Dark and Light:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1f3egvLwVE

Timed assessment: In the role of the Designer, Makeup Artist: Erin Stacey

Health and Safety check:

1. Check that all bags and belongings have been stored away properly.
2. Make sure my client is sat comfortably and caped. 
3. Cover my work station with couch roll.
4. Make sure all of my brushes have been washed and sterilised with Isopropyl ready for application.
5. Complete a consultation form with my client and check for any Contra-indications. 
6. Wash hands with soap and water to prevent bacteria from being transferred to my clients face. 
7.  Decant products onto my Palette to prevent cross contamination. 

Tools and equipment used:

1. Foundation brush x2 for primer and base application. 
2. kabuki brush for base 
3. blending brush
4. contour brush
5. translucent powder brush
6. eyeshadow brush for application x3
7. eyeshadow blending brush for blending x3
8. eyebrow precision brush
9. slanted lip brush.
10. lip brush for pigment application. 
11. tweezers for fake lash's application.
12. scissors to trim fake lashes if necessary.
13. pencil sharpener. 
14. tissue, cotton buds and pads
15. wooden spatulas.
16. SD card
17. Camera Canon 550D
18. Sync lead
19. Hot shoe adaptor 

Products used:

1. Cleanser toner and moisturiser
2. Illamasqua matte primer
3. Kryolan white supra color.
4. Illamasqua translucent powder
5. Love sick eyeshadow palette used for eyes and contouring and brows.
6. Illamasqua liquid liner in havoc
7. Sallys whispie lashes
8. Eyelure lash glue
9. Mac Russian Red lipstick
10. Mac Beet Lip liner
11. Mac Rust pigment

Technique:

1. Erin began by cleansing, toning and moisturising my face. 
2. She then applied the primer with a foundation brush working it into the skin.
3. She then applied the kryolan white base, working it into the skin with the kabuki brush. 
4. Erin then applied a light layer of translucent powder with a big brush to the skin. 
5. Erin then applied the red colour from the lovesick stack to both the inner and outer corners of my eye. Blending it out to create an explosion of colour fading out when it got to the centre of the eye.
6. She then went over this with the purple colour doing the same thing.
7. She then went in with the orange colour but applied this to the centre of the eye on the top and bottom lid.
8. She then blended all of these colours. 
9. Once it was all blended nicely Erin applied the liquid liner staying close to the lash line to give the eye definition. 
10. Erin then began shaping and filling the eyebrow with the red from the same eyeshadow palette. 
11. Once this was all done I applied mascara to my lashes.
12. Erin then applied the already sized lashes to my lash line. 
13. Erin then began drawing the heart shape onto my lips using the beet pencil. 
14. She then filled this in using the mac red lipstick.
15. She then applied the rust mac pigment to the heart shape, holding a tissue underneath to catch the fall out. 
16. Erin then went back using the red eyeshadow to strongly contour under my cheek bones to create definition. 

Final evaluation:From the designer to the Makeup Artist.

I am really impressed with Erin's execution of my design. She was really well practised and I really felt that She understood my design and what I wanted from her as an artist.  She seemed excited about completing my design which was a really nice feeling as It meant I could trust that she would put her all into it.
Erin was on time to the assessment and had her brushes marked, her station set up ready for assessment. She was calm and prepared for the assessment. She was wearing all black with her hair tied back and had washed her hands before she began . She then caped me in preparation of the application. She cleansed, toned and moisturised my face and began the application.
I was very happy with Erin's application on the day of the timed assessment. She managed to complete a symmetrical application. Erin had struggled with the placement of the eyeshadow in previous practise's and how far to blend it out but I feel that she aced this in the timed assessment.  This was important as the blending was the most important aspect of my design. I really feel that Erin understood the depth of colour I was after with my design and that she had a good understanding of the techniques needed to complete my design to my satisfaction. Erin did struggle with the symmetry of the lip application also in previous practise sessions but I feel that she again overcame this in the timed assessment. The eyebrows were shaped and filled in symmetrically and the liner on the eyes and false lashes were applied correctly. The only critique I would give Erin would be that I think she could have put a bit more Translucent powder over the base to set it to stop the shine in the images and the movement of the white base but all in all Im really happy with the outcome and how everything came together and I feel that this is a great showcase of Erin's makeup artistry skills.

I'm very pleased with the application so I have decided to grade Erin an A4. I feel that she displayed professionalism and she managed to complete the timed assessment within the set parameters with time to spare for touch ups.

Timed assessment: In the role of the makeup artist

Health and Safety check:

1. Check that all bags and belongings have been stored away properly.
2. Make sure my client is sat comfortably and caped. 
3. Cover my work station with couch roll.
4. Make sure all of my brushes have been washed and sterilised with Isopropyl ready for application.
5. Complete a consultation form with my client and check for any Contra-indications. 
6. Wash hands with soap and water to prevent bacteria from being transferred to my clients face. 
7.  Decant products onto my Palette to prevent cross contamination. 

Materials and equipment used:

1. Foundation Brush x2
2. kabuki brush
3. translucent powder brush
4. blending brush
5. Large eye shadow application brush 
6. small round eye shadow brush x4
7. precision eyeshadow brush x2
8. slanted lip brush x2
9. large lipstick application brush
10. mascara wands
11. tissues
12. couch roll
13. cotton buds and pads
14. wooden spatulas
15. SD card
16. Camera Canon 550D 
17. sync cable
18. Hot shoe adaptor

Products used:

1. Cleanser, toner and moisturiser
2. Illamasqua satin primer
3. Illamasqua white base
4. Illamasqua translucent powder
5. Illamasqua black eyeshadow
6. Mac bronze shadow
7. Mac rust shadow
8. Mac gold eye cream (used on the lips)
9. Erins own lipgloss
10. Kryolan supracolor in white
11. Erins own mascara
12. Illamasqua highlighting shadow

Technique and routine:

1. First I cleansed, toned and moisturised Erin's face ready for makeup application.
2. I then applied the satin primer
3. I then applied the white base with my foundation brush and buffed it in with my kabuki brush.
4. I then applied a thin layer of translucent powder all over the face to set the base. 
5. I then marked out the shape around the eye that I was filling with eyeshadow with my precision brush(at the top as the bottom was to be blended out).
6. I then used my large shadow brush to fill this space with the bronze shadow.
7. I then used my blending brush to blend out the bottom
8. I checked the symmetry of each side and corrected any mistakes.
9. I then went over the lid of each eye with the rust coloured shadow blending as I went
10. Using the black I filled in the crease to create some dimension to the eye. I also went under the lash line.
11. Erin then applied her own mascara to get right down to the root of her lashes.
12. I then began brushing the eyebrow hair (creating symmetry with each brow) upward. This was to make the eyebrow hair white and to make them look longer.
13. I then applied the white supra colour to the lashes.
14. I then filled in Erin's lips with the gold eye cream and went over it with the lipgloss.

Outcome and Final Personal Evaluation:

This has been a really interesting experience for me. When we first exchanged designs I found it quite hard to interpret Erin's face chart. I struggled with where she wanted the colour to go around the eye and how deep she wanted the colour to go etc. After completing Erin's design I felt that the first practise went ok and that I could manage the design once I had had a few practise sessions. Erin did however feel that her design didn't have to wow factor so she altered it slightly which I absolutely loved. I feel that its a much stronger final design and is a great opportunity to showcase my makeup artist skills. I struggled again with the timing of the first practise but my technique was much better with this design. I really understood Erin's face chart and I felt that our communication was much improved.
We both made ourselves available for practise times out of session times and I felt that Erin was really great at giving constructive criticism and direction for the look. We were very honest with each other through the whole process which we both valued as this helped achieve the best final result. I feel that we worked together very well and were a great creative team. I think we connected through the creative process and built a good trust between us which was invaluable in this project as we are working so closely with eachother's creation that we are both so passionate about.  

Im really pleased with the final result. It took me an hour to complete so I used the rest of the time to perfect everything before taking the photos and showing Sue. I feel that I demonstrated a really good application and performed well under pressure to the desired time limit. I was mostly impressed with the symmetry I managed to achieve with the makeup and the blending underneath the eyes. I felt really calm once I got started and was really eager to get started. I had really prepared for this assessment and practised precision and lines at home and practised a few times on Erin to get the look perfect. I struggled with timing when me and erin first swapped designs and with the precision of the lines Erin wanted for her design but through practise I over came these difficulties. I absolutely love this design and think it goes beautifully with Erin's skin tone and hair colour. I wanted to connect with the design so I could create it with the same passion as I would with my own design. I feel I have managed to do this with the final application.

From the makeup artist to the designer.

I felt that Erin prepared her final design really well. She supplied me with clear face charts, photo's from our practise shoots and detailed explanations for what she wanted the final outcome to look like. She talked me through the products she wanted me to use and how she wanted me to use them and she gave great constructive criticism. This all really helped me perfect the application for the timed assessment. The only criticism I would give to Erin would be next time to do a run through on herself of how she wants the end product to look so that I have a better understanding of the desired outcome. I think seeing the images in photographic form before any practises start is really beneficial when interpreting someone else's design. Erin and I had many practises before the assessment which I really appreciated as this gave me the time to perfect my application and build my confidence with her design. 

Final project evaluation: New Elizabethans.

I have really enjoyed this unit and project as a whole. I have really enjoyed learning more about Queen Elizabeth and I'm inspired by the influence she and the Elizabethan times had on future generations. This research has been critical and really inspirational when thinking about my design for my final piece. I have loved working through the design process and I have learned how to correlate information and my ideas to create a final design that I’m proud of.

 I have learned how to work in a team and learned invaluable communication skills whilst working with my Partner for the final assessment.  I have learned a lot in working with my Partners design and talking through my design with my partner. I feel my makeup application skills have improved substantially, and I have learned new technical skills through this assessment process. I did struggle with Organisation and prioritizing work but feel that I have learned from this and will approach the next semester with this in mind. I am more confident with computers and feel that I have gained an enormous amount of knowledge within this area in a short amount of time. I also feel that I have overcome a lot in this semester. I feel a lot more determined and aware that I can succeed at anything with patience, Practise and confidence in my own abilities. With all of this newfound knowledge I know that I’m only going to become a better artist and student with future projects to come.

Transitioning moods using moving colour.

Transitioning moods using moving colour is exactly how I describe my Final design. To go deeper into what I mean, Colours symbolise moods, feelings and emotions. 

Yellow: Sun, life, passion, Joy, imagination.

Red: Anger, power, rage, passion, lust, love, strength and desire.

Green: Earth, nature, Life, fertility and youth. 

Purple: Royalty, luxury, healing, Spirituality, mystery. 

Blue: Sea, communication, emotions, clean, space, Clarity.

Pink: Love, tenderness, calm.

Black: Power, depth, fear, unhappiness, sophistication, elegance and wealth.

Colour is the artist's greatest tool. Whatever our medium we use it to transmit emotions through our work. We can use opposing colours or colours in harmony with each other to display our message. I wanted to use my chosen colours to show how I see Kat Ashley. I feel that she is a very loving woman. She was by Elizabeths side up until she (Kat) died. She would spend every day teaching Elizabeth different languages, art, geography, mathematics, and literature. She taught Elizabeth not only about the world but also about love. I wanted those emotions to show in my final piece. 

I wanted the colours to move you. The depth of colour is incredibly important to me. I wanted the colours to be strong and well blended almost to look like they are moving into each other and away from each other like emotions do. 

These images below inspire me greatly. I love underwater fashion photography as I feel it mixes the two things I have been talking about here, emotions with colour. They are so vibrant and moving. The way the fabric flows through the water and creates these huge, vast shapes. They look like blooming flowers. The bursting colours is what I wanted to use and this definitely inspired me and how I wanted to create moving colours in my final design. 

References Images: 

Image 1: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/25/2d/1a/252d1a91ebf8a095f58fbaaf46afe0db.jpg

Image 2: http://36.media.tumblr.com/8c8d724c2e42db84c82423a768ad1d6b/tumblr_n288p5RnZS1r2idzvo1_500.jpg

Image 3: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/9a/2c/a1/9a2ca1b3efde4a3bd291dc377716ded3.jpg

Image 4: http://www.u-style.com.tw/img/upload/members/admin_cp/2012/11/13527715231e.jpg

Makeup is Art Inspiration:

I bought this book about a year ago but hadn't looked in it for months. I was looking for inspiring images and I definitely found them! These to me are very regal. The colours are strong and royal and they have used a lot of gold and diamonds for extra glamour. They almost remind me of the modern Portraits. The Elizabethans would wear there most expensive clothes and Jewels when sitting for a portrait of themselves. This was a great way of displaying there wealth to any visitors. 

This image above is the perfect example of displaying wealth. Elizabeth is wearing all of her most expensive jewels. She obviously would have worn this all the time but it was especially important for portrait images. The Queen is also wearing very expensive colours. Red (the pigment) was very difficult to get hold of in the Elizabethan times. Only the most regal and rich people in the country would wear the colour. This along with the jewels shows elizabeths wealth.  

I love the strong colours in the above image. The pale skin definitely feels Elizabethan and paired with the rich colours too. I love the contrasting colours.

This is probably my favourite image I found in this book. The crown is incredibly Regal for obvious reasons but its also a very powerful symbol for importance, wealth, power and influence. This image is incredibly strong and I love the way its placed in the mouth and the contrast with the diamonds against the red lipstick. 

I love this image also. The base on both of the models is perfect and I love how they have just thrown the powder pigment over the top. The colours are so beautiful and vibrant. It really shows the power of colour with the contrast against the simple base. 

References:

Image of Elizabeth: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/gallery/images/qe-phoenix.jpg

Ririnui, Jana Waru and Nguyen, Dr Lan. (2010) Makeup is Art. Carlton Books.  

Technical blog sign off!